The interior of the Spider is in average condition for a thirty year old Fiat, yeah that bad. Part of my rolling restoration plan is to re-do the interior from the ground up. Literally, starting with the floors. Unfortunately since this requires taking out the seats, consoles, carpet, insulation, and then scraping, begging-off and chemical-bombarding the rubber liner that has become part of the floor...this will need to be done over the course of a 'free' weekend (not many of those on my calendar).
Then I will POR-15 the floors, replace the wool insulation with foil-lined foam (home ducting type) and of course the carpet.The OEM carpet was a corn-row type that is, amazingly, common stock at home depot and Lowes. Becca and I picked out a lighter color than the car shipped with. We think it will give the car less of a 'old-dark-dirty' look.
Here is the test fitting of the driver side floor carpet.
This weekend I removed most the insulation and rubber from the immediate area, however I will need to strip the interior floorboards using a wire brush and solvent before I can start POR'ing and insulating. Good news is that no rust whatsoever found in the floor panels so far. (shocking)
Sunday, December 02, 2007
Fiat 124 Spider Abarth-type bumper conversion
Like all post 1974 classic roadsters, my Spider is (was) afflicted with rather substaincial double chrome bar bumpers. The front bumper does a particuarly good job of spoiling the Pinninfarina styling. Remembering a couple cars back ( a Jeep Wrangler 'TJ') I remembered its bumper overriders (the rubber blocks bolted to the Jeep's rain gutter...er' I mean bumper) and thought they would look pretty good bolted to the end of my Fiat's bumper shocks. I think I was right.
This is what remains of my trusty dremel. It caught a-flame while I was using the cutting wheel to extend the 10mph bumper shock bracket to accommodate the Jeep TJ bumper over-riders I purchased off Ebay.
Here is the modified bracket.
Note that after burning up my dremel I used the proper, if noisy, tool for the job (angle grinder).
This is what remains of my trusty dremel. It caught a-flame while I was using the cutting wheel to extend the 10mph bumper shock bracket to accommodate the Jeep TJ bumper over-riders I purchased off Ebay.
Here is the modified bracket.
Note that after burning up my dremel I used the proper, if noisy, tool for the job (angle grinder).
Labels:
Abarth,
Bumper Conversion,
Fiat 124,
Spider
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Fiat 124 Spider - Thermostat Repair
This was the first and most critical 'driveability' repair I completed with our 'new' 1977 Fiat Spider.
Symptoms: Starting to Overheat after 5-8 miles of highway driving.
Observations: Lower radiator hose cool to touch, while upper is too hot. Electric Fan does not cycle. Tested Termostat in boiling water, works ok.
Prognossis: Thermostat is not opening properly due to air being trapped in lower thermo-body.
Repair Action: Drilled small-ish hole in high point of lower Thermostat Body chamber. This should allow any air to escape to upper hose and be bled off from there.
Update: This has restored normal function to the cooling system. Both lower and upper are now hot when temp reads 90 deg C. Temp has remained normal for two weeks of daily driving. Have run wire for fan-override toggle switch should fan fail to cycle.
Sunday, October 29, 2006
Delorean Frame Touch-up
Delorean Repair: Front Frame Surface Corrosion
(note: This was actually accomplished November of 2005)
One of the first things you should do when restoring or maintaining a Delorean is to 'secure' the frame. The DMC-12 uses a mild steel frame coated in Epoxy for corrosion resistance. Unfortunately the epoxy can become brittle and allow corrosion to occur, sometimes without obvious external indication.
The following repair was made to touch up the front crossmember section of my Delorean's frame.
1) The first step is to remove as much of the epoxy (scrape+heat) surrounding the area as is necessary to expose the corrosion. Hopefully you'll find, like me, that it is only surface corrosion.
If so,
2) remove loose rust
3) clean the area with your favorite degreaser
4) coat with POR-15 (Grey)
5) follow up with frame-matching grey paint.
(note: This was actually accomplished November of 2005)
One of the first things you should do when restoring or maintaining a Delorean is to 'secure' the frame. The DMC-12 uses a mild steel frame coated in Epoxy for corrosion resistance. Unfortunately the epoxy can become brittle and allow corrosion to occur, sometimes without obvious external indication.
The following repair was made to touch up the front crossmember section of my Delorean's frame.
1) The first step is to remove as much of the epoxy (scrape+heat) surrounding the area as is necessary to expose the corrosion. Hopefully you'll find, like me, that it is only surface corrosion.
If so,
2) remove loose rust
3) clean the area with your favorite degreaser
4) coat with POR-15 (Grey)
5) follow up with frame-matching grey paint.
Thursday, October 05, 2006
Cherokee XJ For Sale
It was a shockingly difficult decision to list my 1998 Jeep Cherokee for sale. It is very unique in my opinion because it is based on a literal implementation of a 1984 era design, an era of dream-cars for geeks (Deloreans, Ferrari 308s, Jeep Wranglers, Mercedes-Benz Roadsters, and even Jeep Cherokees).
So here it is;
1998 Jeep Cherokee ‘sport’
122,xxx miles
4x4 - Command Trac
four speed automatic
Cruise Control
Power Mirrors/Windows
Remote entry
Good Points
Paint is very nice / clear
Frame/Tub Floor is POR-15 protected (will likely never rust)
All options/functions are fully operational (except A/C as noted below)
Clear title
Extremely clean inside (removed seats/consoles and carpets every 20,000 miles to do a thorough cleaning)
one-year old tires
new rear shocks
one-year old front shocks
regular oil-changes @ 4,000 miles (mobile 1 synthetic)
classic styling
Mechanical Defects;
Door guard trim on driver door has been removed (it was pulling away from the double sided tape.)
AC doesn’t operate. Holds refrigerant fine, looks like a defective low-pressure switch (best case @ ~$15) or a clogged condenser (worst case @ ~$400).
Front-to-rear brake line recently burst (rare event for any car, I replaced it with dot-approved line, but in the interests of full disclosure you should know that).
Hood release handle (plastic) is broken, hood is opened by pulling on the cable itself.
Body/Interior Defects:
Couple of very slight dings on the hood (can’t usually see but if you get the light to hit correctly you can find a couple)
Steering wheel is leather wrapped, however it is dried-out-looking (hence the cover).
Passenger-side rear seat is missing its three point belt (I have all the mechanisms/receivers however the OEM belt was damaged before I bought the car, so I removed it).
So here it is;
1998 Jeep Cherokee ‘sport’
122,xxx miles
4x4 - Command Trac
four speed automatic
Cruise Control
Power Mirrors/Windows
Remote entry
Good Points
Paint is very nice / clear
Frame/Tub Floor is POR-15 protected (will likely never rust)
All options/functions are fully operational (except A/C as noted below)
Clear title
Extremely clean inside (removed seats/consoles and carpets every 20,000 miles to do a thorough cleaning)
one-year old tires
new rear shocks
one-year old front shocks
regular oil-changes @ 4,000 miles (mobile 1 synthetic)
classic styling
Mechanical Defects;
Door guard trim on driver door has been removed (it was pulling away from the double sided tape.)
AC doesn’t operate. Holds refrigerant fine, looks like a defective low-pressure switch (best case @ ~$15) or a clogged condenser (worst case @ ~$400).
Front-to-rear brake line recently burst (rare event for any car, I replaced it with dot-approved line, but in the interests of full disclosure you should know that).
Hood release handle (plastic) is broken, hood is opened by pulling on the cable itself.
Body/Interior Defects:
Couple of very slight dings on the hood (can’t usually see but if you get the light to hit correctly you can find a couple)
Steering wheel is leather wrapped, however it is dried-out-looking (hence the cover).
Passenger-side rear seat is missing its three point belt (I have all the mechanisms/receivers however the OEM belt was damaged before I bought the car, so I removed it).
Saturday, September 23, 2006
The Delorean; Not as bad as it should have been
The DMC-12
"Live the Nightmare"
or
"On a clear day I can see finger prints... on my Delorean"
or
"The most anticipated motoring blunder, of all time"
This is what the ultra-conservative motoring pundits want people to associate with the ill-fated DMC-12. As Col. Sherman Potter said, "bull cookies".
The 1981-1983 Delorean was not only one of the most successful failures of its era, but remains today to be a text book example of where brilliance, determination and know-how are not nearly enough.
The litany of difficulties;
Reality is a tough beast; not only was the Delorean designed with built-in-contradictions, that is; a safe, reliable, affordable, supercar. It was also; built by a company with no prior operating experience & no pedigree, engineered by a company with limited mass-production experience (Lotus), based on a hand built & expensive sports car (Lotus Esprit), assembled in a new country (N. Ireland) by an inexperienced workforce, and financed with public money (UK).
Conclusion;
The Delorean may well in fact be the worlds first reliable Lotus.. maybe? It is certainly fun to drive (RWD, rear mounted V6), easily to maintain (even 25years later), has fantastic styling, stainless steel body and of course the Gullwing doors (which are as practical as there are novel).
In the end, the company sank like a rock, the car was not affordable, and certainly did not come with the supercar-prerequisite ‘performance package’. However it is a historic accomplishment in that the DMC-12 back-to-the-future mobile isn’t nearly as bad as it should have been…
Friday, August 25, 2006
Mazda6 SportWagon
Recently, my wife and I concluded our quest to find a replacement vehicle for our venerable-yet-oh-so-80s 1998 Jeep Cherokee (sport).
The short list leading up to our decision included the 2006 Volvo V50 Estate, the 2006 Mazda6 SportWagon, and a slightly used 2006 BMW 325xi SportWagon. In the end the Mazda6 SportWagon dazzled us with its…exhilarating… plainness…we bought it anyway.
Wagon’s are Back?
Estates never really left, they have been and remain (IMHO) the quintessential vehicle of the everyday person. They have simple been in disguise. Think of all the SUVs out there today, and now think of how many of them are actually built on truck chassis. In fact a large majority of them are built like sedans and often times share common platforms with them. We American’s love our SUV’s, not because they are trucks, often they aren’t, we love them because they aren’t estate wagons, but hang on, I think they are.
Whats in a Name;
They call it a sport-wagon, and at first, I thought I got it; it’s a square box of mild steel & Aluminum with four little wheels and they don’t want me to feel any worse for being a person who needs such a vehicle than is absolutely necessary. It’s a ‘sport’, in the same spirit as Microsoft Windows is 'professional' or Fox is 'fair and balanced' and the Pontiac Vibe is ‘cool’. We, as a society, have become desensitized to many things, chief among them, due to the rampant proliferation of the word, is ‘sport-x’, ‘sport-y’ on every 5000lb SUV that stumbles out of Detroit’s auto-works. So some of us may indeed be skeptical when we see someone pull-up in the Kia Sportage Sport-model with the optional Sport package. In fact the only car I have owned in the past seven years that did not explicitly assign the word ‘sport’ to some attribute of the car, was a SN-95 Ford Mustang. Instead the Mustang had the ‘performance package’ (you guessed it, leather wrapped steering wheel + fog lamps). If the past 176 words haven’t convinced you, My natural instinct is to consider the use of ‘sport’ in the context of describing an estate wagon to be a overstatement at best or a flat out lie of Plymouth ‘Reliant’ proportions at worst. But when you think about it..
'Sport' Justification;
It does come standard with the 210BHP 3.0 liter (Ford) Duratec (concerned that they felt a need to say ‘Dura’, would prefer ‘Sportatec’) motor rather than the base 160BHP 2.3L standard on the four door sedan and hatchback models. Net horsepower becomes Effective(ish) horsepower via a six speed ‘Sport’ (not kidding) sequential-automatic slushbox or a slick short-throw 5-speed manual. It weighs 3461lbs (curb) far lighter than Ford’s Freestyle @ 4112lbs (curb) and slightly lighter than Volvo V70 @ 3488lb While not usually considered a plus, the Mazda6’s underlying platform lacks support for an AWD system (at present). In my opinion that’s just as ‘sport’ suggests, somewhat minimalist (although anyone who says the AWD Mitsubishi EVO is not a great sports car, can leave now).
Honestly though, the strongest argument for justifying the sport moniker maybe the leather wrapped steering wheel.
Driving Experiences;
It drives like an Americanized sports car, somewhat taunt and composed, that is, until you hit a corner. In all fairness this is by far one of the best handling wagons ever assembled domestically and with a available $300 Mazda speed spring kit you should be able to get into BMW 325xi territory (if they only had a RWD kit).
The main difficulty from a driving perspective is the absence of low-end torque. Like President Bush giving a speech it stutters for a few moments, gains its composure, and finally gets the point across (this is where Pres. Bush and the Mazda6 part ways) with its peek 220 BHP. The Mazda6 (Ford) Duratec motor seems better suited for light truck/SUV duty than for motivational power in a ‘sport’ wagon. That said, once going it really goes, 0-60 in 8.2 seconds according to my informal run with an accelerometer.
Torque Steer? Yes, a bit off the line, however traction control reins it in quickly.
Understeer. For sure…right? Certainly it is impossible to hide the fact that the motor shares its space under the hood with a transversally mounted transmission resulting in a car with 66% of its weight front-biased… but that’s exactly what they almost did (read that twice for effect).
Lock-to-lock; Sometimes I think the only reason my wife liked the Cherokee was because it was all enough to allow the wheels to turn closer to 90 degrees from straight than anything else on the road allowing the driver to make even the most rubbish parking lot maneuvers, successful. Whereas navigating our Mazda6 requires planning and rudimentary geometry skills. It is a brilliant car overall, however intro to geometry should be a perquisite for the educationally-challenged.
When driving in manual-mode the sequential slushbox will allow engine to redline until you shift (a plus, as some cars will upshift automatically at redline). Upshifts feel about right, predictably slow, while downshifts largely depend on the status of the torque converter, current wheel speed, engine rpm and the deltas of those (changes), thus ‘requested’ downshifts may not occur until you are parked in the garage and contemplating a mid-life crises (you were 26 when you parked).
Conclusion;
Frankly, it’s obviously the best choice for the discerning buyer, I should know, I bought one.
More Info;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda6
http://www.epinions.com/pr-2006_Mazda_6/display_~reviews
The short list leading up to our decision included the 2006 Volvo V50 Estate, the 2006 Mazda6 SportWagon, and a slightly used 2006 BMW 325xi SportWagon. In the end the Mazda6 SportWagon dazzled us with its…exhilarating… plainness…we bought it anyway.
Wagon’s are Back?
Estates never really left, they have been and remain (IMHO) the quintessential vehicle of the everyday person. They have simple been in disguise. Think of all the SUVs out there today, and now think of how many of them are actually built on truck chassis. In fact a large majority of them are built like sedans and often times share common platforms with them. We American’s love our SUV’s, not because they are trucks, often they aren’t, we love them because they aren’t estate wagons, but hang on, I think they are.
Whats in a Name;
They call it a sport-wagon, and at first, I thought I got it; it’s a square box of mild steel & Aluminum with four little wheels and they don’t want me to feel any worse for being a person who needs such a vehicle than is absolutely necessary. It’s a ‘sport’, in the same spirit as Microsoft Windows is 'professional' or Fox is 'fair and balanced' and the Pontiac Vibe is ‘cool’. We, as a society, have become desensitized to many things, chief among them, due to the rampant proliferation of the word, is ‘sport-x’, ‘sport-y’ on every 5000lb SUV that stumbles out of Detroit’s auto-works. So some of us may indeed be skeptical when we see someone pull-up in the Kia Sportage Sport-model with the optional Sport package. In fact the only car I have owned in the past seven years that did not explicitly assign the word ‘sport’ to some attribute of the car, was a SN-95 Ford Mustang. Instead the Mustang had the ‘performance package’ (you guessed it, leather wrapped steering wheel + fog lamps). If the past 176 words haven’t convinced you, My natural instinct is to consider the use of ‘sport’ in the context of describing an estate wagon to be a overstatement at best or a flat out lie of Plymouth ‘Reliant’ proportions at worst. But when you think about it..
'Sport' Justification;
It does come standard with the 210BHP 3.0 liter (Ford) Duratec (concerned that they felt a need to say ‘Dura’, would prefer ‘Sportatec’) motor rather than the base 160BHP 2.3L standard on the four door sedan and hatchback models. Net horsepower becomes Effective(ish) horsepower via a six speed ‘Sport’ (not kidding) sequential-automatic slushbox or a slick short-throw 5-speed manual. It weighs 3461lbs (curb) far lighter than Ford’s Freestyle @ 4112lbs (curb) and slightly lighter than Volvo V70 @ 3488lb While not usually considered a plus, the Mazda6’s underlying platform lacks support for an AWD system (at present). In my opinion that’s just as ‘sport’ suggests, somewhat minimalist (although anyone who says the AWD Mitsubishi EVO is not a great sports car, can leave now).
Honestly though, the strongest argument for justifying the sport moniker maybe the leather wrapped steering wheel.
Driving Experiences;
It drives like an Americanized sports car, somewhat taunt and composed, that is, until you hit a corner. In all fairness this is by far one of the best handling wagons ever assembled domestically and with a available $300 Mazda speed spring kit you should be able to get into BMW 325xi territory (if they only had a RWD kit).
The main difficulty from a driving perspective is the absence of low-end torque. Like President Bush giving a speech it stutters for a few moments, gains its composure, and finally gets the point across (this is where Pres. Bush and the Mazda6 part ways) with its peek 220 BHP. The Mazda6 (Ford) Duratec motor seems better suited for light truck/SUV duty than for motivational power in a ‘sport’ wagon. That said, once going it really goes, 0-60 in 8.2 seconds according to my informal run with an accelerometer.
Torque Steer? Yes, a bit off the line, however traction control reins it in quickly.
Understeer. For sure…right? Certainly it is impossible to hide the fact that the motor shares its space under the hood with a transversally mounted transmission resulting in a car with 66% of its weight front-biased… but that’s exactly what they almost did (read that twice for effect).
Lock-to-lock; Sometimes I think the only reason my wife liked the Cherokee was because it was all enough to allow the wheels to turn closer to 90 degrees from straight than anything else on the road allowing the driver to make even the most rubbish parking lot maneuvers, successful. Whereas navigating our Mazda6 requires planning and rudimentary geometry skills. It is a brilliant car overall, however intro to geometry should be a perquisite for the educationally-challenged.
When driving in manual-mode the sequential slushbox will allow engine to redline until you shift (a plus, as some cars will upshift automatically at redline). Upshifts feel about right, predictably slow, while downshifts largely depend on the status of the torque converter, current wheel speed, engine rpm and the deltas of those (changes), thus ‘requested’ downshifts may not occur until you are parked in the garage and contemplating a mid-life crises (you were 26 when you parked).
Conclusion;
Frankly, it’s obviously the best choice for the discerning buyer, I should know, I bought one.
More Info;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda6
http://www.epinions.com/pr-2006_Mazda_6/display_~reviews
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